Weeks 1–2 · The kit
What to buy, and what to skip for a year.
Four programs of 8 to 12 weeks, worked on pieces you finish and photograph.
We start with a tool list that fits a shoebox: a knife, pricking irons, an awl, needles and a burnisher. Then choosing leather — tannage, weight and where to buy offcuts — and cutting to a pattern accurately, which decides whether the rest of the piece can ever be square.
What to buy, and what to skip for a year.
Tannage, weight and reading a hide.
Making and transferring them accurately.
Straight lines, clean curves, sharp blades.
Even spacing, consistent angle.
Needle order, tension and rhythm.
Turning, backstitching and finishing.
Front and back identical.
A saddle stitch is simple and unforgiving. We work on punching at a consistent angle, keeping the same needle order every stitch, and tension that doesn't pull the leather — until the back of your work looks as good as the front, which is the real test.
Edges separate hobby work from pieces people assume were bought. We cover bevelling, sanding through grits, burnishing with gum or water, and the dyeing process that avoids streaks — including testing on offcuts first, every single time.
Preparing an edge properly.
Glass-smooth edges, by hand.
Even color, tested on scrap.
Sealing and conditioning.
Stitching under scrutiny.
Edges, hardware and straight lines.
Layers, pockets and bulk.
Gussets, straps and construction order.
Each project is chosen to teach something new: a card holder for stitching, a belt for edges and hardware, a wallet for internal construction, and a simple bag for gussets, straps and lining. By the end you can plan your own piece and estimate the leather for it.
Twenty minutes on your tools, your leather and the first thing to fix. Free.